Manisses
|
Not too long ago, I heard someone say, "God created time, so everything
wouldn't happen all at once."
Just before hurricane Floyd pounded the Carolinas, I left my home port for
Block Island, Rhode Island. This lamb chop shaped New England jewel is situated 15 miles off the coast of Montauk and 12 miles from Point Judith, Rhode Island. Timing my travel to coincide with the ebb tide in order to push me
along towards my destination, I Left 3 Mile Harbor and once again found
myself passing The Ruins off Gardiners Island. The seas didn't reflect the
impending storm as of yet. The skies were mostly cloudy leaving small spaces
for the sun to pop though. The wind shifted from S-SW to NE at about 5 to 10
knots. A pleasant 6.5 hour sail brought what appeared to be two islands into
close view and I was greeted by the light marking the Great Salt Pond just
before sunset.
In the morning, while hailing Oldport Landing on channel 68, harbor patrol
pulled up to collect the off-season fare of $20.00 for the mooring that I
picked the night before. The harbormaster reported that shortly after Labor
Day the water taxis stop running. He suggested that, for easy access to the
island, I travel to Old Harbor and tie up in front of Ballard's Inn to the
bulkhead at the town dock, as I was without a dinghy.
Still recording no signs of the 400 mile long storm slowly moving up the
coast, I moved cautiously north around the island into the unprotected North
Atlantic Ocean.
I wanted to circle the island by boat anyway. However, I was
concerned the expected storm might make the return home more difficult from
the east side. Seeing waves breaking on a shallow stretch of sand jetting out
from the northern tip of Block Island assured that I was not going to cut
inside red marker BI1.
Block Island, also known as the town of New Shoreham, was first discovered by
Giovanni da Verrazano but his name "Luisa" did not stick and its namesake is
accredited to Adriaen Block, who charted the island some 90 years later. Over
6 miles long with an elevation of more than 210 feet, cliffs, ponds, hilly
terrain and old stone fences invite one in to relax and explore.
More than 150 years before they dredged and opened Great Salt Pond, oxen were used
to build the breakwaters that created Old Harbor. This man-made harbor on the
east side of the island is tiny in comparison to Great Salt Pond on the west.
It does, however, leave you right in the center of the island's largest
commercial district.
Upon your arrival, you will find a box perched outside the bathrooms that greet boaters. Not to be confused with a cover charge, this is where you are to deposit
your 50 cent landing fee.
Just a stone's throw from
the boat, offering cars, mopeds and bicycles, Old Harbor Bike Shop is one of
the many rental outlets available. This island is a dream for the bike rider.
There are many winding paths leading to and from bluffs only available by
foot or bicycle.
Once on the bicycle I headed south and west. Behind the Hotel Manisses I
found a wonderful animal farm where domestic and exotic animals live together as pals.
Continuing on, I saw many property boundaries
marked with long, stone fences. Little ponds and Victorian architecture give the island a true New England
feel and the hilly terrain adds a certain Scottish flair.
The bike ride was broken up with a pit stop at Bethany's Airport Diner. I had
a nice sandwich as, behind my back, small planes took off and landed
seemingly within reach.
I traveled through many wooded areas and soon noticed that on Block Island
there were no squirrels. After 5 plus hours of riding, as the gray sky turned
dark, I was ready to call it quits. I returned the bike and had a wonderful
dinner at the Mohegan Cafe. The waitress there confirmed the bit about the
squirrels and informed me that there were no chipmunks either. Both animals
have healthy populations less than 20 miles away.
Back on the boat, the NOAA weather report and the tide schedule called for an
early departure the next morning.
Since I wasn't ready to leave until after
0700 I took the liberty of getting a large cup of coffee and a deliciously
fresh blueberry muffin from Aldo's.
A tropical storm watch was issued covering my surrounding area.
All pleasure
craft were to be banned from the waters off of Long Island in less than 24
hours. I set course for the first marker outside this artificial harbor. Once
at that marker, because of a heavy fog, I could no longer see Block Island
and the visibility dropped to between 1/4 and 1/2 of a mile.
I tried to use
dead reckoning to reach the next marker but was not successful. I relied on
my instruments from there on. Using the GPS, I plotted a course to BI1. Not
establishing a visual until I was less than 1/2 mile from her, I came up on
the north side as planned. As the day progressed the fog lifted somewhat to
allow about 1 mile of visibility. Traveling through Block Island Sound was
surprisingly calm.
Personally, I wasn't comfortable with that. The wind
dropped down to light and variable. I packed up the sails and turned into a
motorboat. Marker to marker, I moved in the fog, slowly making my way home.
Rain welcomed me as I approached the bell in Gardiners Bay. If it weren't
raining, this is what it would look like.
Even though hurricane Floyd was
expected to be the strongest storm to pass through here in quite some time,
it did little damage to this area.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank you all for reading. I am looking forward to continuing the digital travels of Knot Ink. At the end of the month, my intentions are to sail through Lake Okeechobee and out to the Bahamas before heading back to Key West and points south. Please, at the bottom of the page, contact us with any ideas, comments or questions through the guest book link.
|
|
|